How Did Clothing Styles Change During Different Dynasties in China?

Chinese clothing has a long and intricate history that reflects the nation’s evolving culture, social hierarchy, technological advancements, and foreign influences. From the ritualistic garments of the Shang dynasty to the sophisticated designs of the Qing era, traditional Chinese fashion evolved in both form and function. Let’s explore how clothing styles changed through the major dynasties.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties (1600–256 BCE)

Style: The basic form was the “upper garment and lower skirt”, with narrow-sleeved cross-collar tops and skirts tied with wide belts. Ritual wear included the mianfu—a ceremonial outfit worn by kings and nobles, symbolizing cosmic order.
Color: Five main colors (blue, red, yellow, white, black) symbolized the five elements and cosmic balance. Black and red were prominent in royal attire.
Materials: Hemp, silk, and animal hides were used, with silk reserved for aristocrats.
Accessories: Jade ornaments and bone hairpins were common, often carved in animal shapes.

Spring and Autumn & Warring States Periods (770–221 BCE)

Style: The shenyi (deep robe) became popular, with curved or straight hems. The hufu (short jackets and trousers) introduced by nomadic cultures gained popularity among military men.
Color: Purple became a new symbol of wealth and nobility, deviating from traditional five-element colors.
Materials: Silks became more widespread beyond the elite.
Accessories: Decorative belt hooks and elaborately designed hats with silk linings were fashionable.

Qin and Han Dynasties (221 BCE – 220 CE)

Style: Men wore curved-hem and straight-hem deep robes, fastened with belts. Women wore ruqun (blouse and skirt) and formal robes.
Color: Black was considered noble during Qin rule. In Han, yellow gradually gained imperial significance.
Materials: The silk industry thrived; fabrics like gauze, brocade, and plain silk were widespread.
Accessories: Men wore caps or headcloths; women adorned themselves with earrings, necklaces, and hairpins.

Wei, Jin, and Northern & Southern Dynasties (220–589 CE)

Style: Loose robes with wide sleeves were popular among men. Women’s dresses featured tight upper garments and flowing lower skirts. In the north, shorter, tighter styles emerged due to nomadic influence.
Color: Pale and elegant colors were favored, reflecting philosophical ideals like Daoism.
Materials: Silk technology matured; lighter materials were widely used.
Accessories: Hairstyles such as the “flying snake bun” and intricate gold or jade hairpins became popular.

Tang Dynasty (618–907 CE)

Style: Men wore round-collared robes with belts and futou (wrapped headwear). Women wore high-waisted skirts paired with short blouses and silk shawls (pei). Foreign influences introduced new styles like Hu-style robes.
Color: Bright and vibrant colors dominated; only royalty could wear yellow.
Materials: Advanced silk weaving produced lightweight and printed fabrics.
Accessories: Elaborate hairpins, forehead ornaments (huadian), and belt charms were fashionable.

Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE)

Style: Men’s robes were more reserved and narrow-sleeved. Women’s outfits included banbi, beizi, and pleated skirts, focusing on elegance and modesty.
Color: Gentle hues like gray, blue, and white were popular, in line with Neo-Confucian values.
Materials: Cotton became widespread; silk retained refined patterns like Song brocade.
Accessories: Simpler and more refined, including small jade or pearl pieces and embroidered sashes.

Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368 CE)

Style: Influenced by Mongolian culture, both genders wore long robes with tight sleeves, fastened at the waist—designed for mobility.
Color: White and blue were favored, but yellow remained exclusive to imperial rituals.
Materials: Wool, felt, and leather dominated among nomadic elites, while silk maintained its status in official settings.
Accessories: High hats (gugu hats), ornamental belts, and pearl jewelry were common.

Ming Dynasty (1368–1644 CE)

Style: Men wore round-collar robes with embroidered insignia patches; women wore aoqun (short jackets with horse-face skirts) and long cloaks.
Color: Rich and saturated tones like red and green indicated social rank. Yellow was exclusive to the emperor.
Materials: Cotton was common, but fine brocades like yunjin were used by the elite.
Accessories: Women wore gold hairpins, pearl earrings, and silk shawls; officials wore black hats with winged extensions.

Qing Dynasty (1644–1912 CE)

Style: Manchu-style robes (changpao) and sleeveless jackets (magua) were standard for men. Women wore qipao, evolving from wide, loose robes to more form-fitting garments.
Color: Light colors for everyday use, with vivid contrasts in court attire. Yellow, again, signified imperial authority.
Materials: Fur-lined winter garments, cotton for everyday wear, and highly embroidered silks for officials and royalty.
Accessories: Men wore hat toppers and peacock feathers as status symbols; women used flower crowns, beaded earrings, and jade bangles.

Conclusion

From ritualistic symbolism in the Shang and Zhou eras to the sophisticated elegance of the Qing, Chinese clothing evolved alongside its dynastic changes. These shifts reflected not just aesthetic tastes but also philosophical ideals, social hierarchies, technological innovations, and intercultural exchanges. Today, elements of traditional Chinese attire—like the hanfu, qipao, and changshan—continue to inspire contemporary fashion and cultural identity.

FAQ: Traditional Chinese Clothing Across Dynasties

1. In which dynasty was women’s clothing the most revealing or liberal?
The Tang dynasty is widely regarded as the most open and expressive era for women’s fashion. High-waisted skirts, low-cut blouses, sheer silk fabrics, and draped shawls (peizi) were popular. This reflected a broader cultural confidence and openness to foreign influence, as the Tang capital, Chang’an, was a cosmopolitan hub.

2. Why did Tang dynasty clothing appear so vibrant and cosmopolitan?
The Tang dynasty was a golden age of cultural exchange and relative social freedom. With the Silk Road thriving, styles from Central Asia, Persia, and beyond entered China. The openness to new ideas was mirrored in fashion—bright colors, bold silhouettes, and Hu-style (nomadic) garments became fashionable, especially among the elite and entertainers.

3. Was there a difference between what nobles and commoners wore?
Yes, and the difference was both visual and symbolic. Nobles often wore garments made of silk, featuring intricate embroidery, wide sleeves, and ornate accessories like jade hairpins or gold belts. Commoners, on the other hand, wore simpler styles made from hemp or cotton, with subdued colors and little decoration, due to sumptuary laws and economic constraints.

4. What made Ming dynasty clothing appear so structured and formal?
Ming clothing was shaped by a return to Han Chinese traditions after the Yuan (Mongol-led) dynasty. Garments were more symmetrical, with flat collars, structured sleeves, and formalized accessories. Clothing codes were strictly enforced to reflect Confucian ideals—modesty, hierarchy, and ritual propriety.

5. Why did Qing dynasty clothing look different from previous dynasties?
The Qing dynasty was founded by the Manchus, a non-Han ethnic group. Their culture influenced the style of dress significantly. Robes like the changpao and qipao were designed with narrow sleeves and high collars for practicality, especially for horseback riding. Han Chinese were also required to adopt certain Manchu elements, like the queue hairstyle and magua jacket.

6. Did men’s and women’s clothing evolve at the same pace?
Not always. Women’s fashion tended to reflect court aesthetics and societal ideals more closely—such as modesty, elegance, or femininity—while men’s clothing often followed changes in political or military context. For example, Manchu men’s attire adapted for mobility, while women’s garments became more decorative.

7. What role did color play in traditional Chinese clothing?
Color signified rank, virtue, and cosmic order. For example, yellow was reserved for the emperor, red symbolized good fortune, and white was often associated with mourning. Each dynasty had its own color system tied to ideology or astrology. Wearing imperial colors without permission could be punishable by law.

8. Were there practical differences in clothing across regions?
Yes. Northern regions, due to colder climates and nomadic influence, favored tighter garments and layered robes. Southern areas preferred lighter fabrics and more flowing silhouettes, suited for humid weather. Local materials and lifestyle shaped these regional variations.

9. Did hairstyles and accessories follow clothing trends?
Absolutely. Hairstyles were often coordinated with clothing to signal age, status, or marital status. For instance, Tang women wore elaborate buns with gold pins, while Qing women used ornate headpieces like liangbatou. Men’s headwear—from Han caps to Qing mandarin hats—also evolved to match dynastic style codes.

10. Are any of these styles still worn today?
Yes. Traditional garments like the hanfu, qipao (cheongsam), and changshan have seen a revival in recent decades, especially for festivals, weddings, and cultural events. Designers today often reinterpret these historic styles with modern fabrics and silhouettes, connecting heritage with contemporary fashion.